Although fueled by our quirky passion for all things Ancient and English, our recently-published book, Amateur Historian's Guide to Tudor and Medieval London, was actually born out of frustration. Determined as we were, on our first trip to London together, to poke into all of the city's ancient nooks and crannies, we found ourselves working with about 15 different guidebooks. Still, we could find no mention of several historic sites we knew existed . . . and we kept stumbling across other treasures not discussed in the "popular" guides.
At last (over late-afternoon libations), we decided we had a duty to our fellow amateur historians to write our own book; a compendium of the medieval and Tudor vestiges which can still be traced in London, along with insights about the people and events that made those sites so significant.
Over the course of writing our book, we traveled to London six separate times. Believe us, that's a lot of visits to the Tower of London (not that we're complaining) and many, many miles of walking the Roman Wall. And although we have yet to find a corner of ancient London we didn't absolutely love, we have, of course, developed a particular fondness for certain places - special sites that we could (and will!) visit again and again.
If you have only a few days in London in which to indulge your hunger for medieval and Tudor history, here's our list of not-to-be-missed treasures, divvied up over several days. Some may surprise you; all, we're certain, will delight you!
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If you have only one day to spare, make it count by discovering the remarkable (but less well-known) attractions of London. As much as we love both the Tower and Westminster Abbey, we really do not think you can do justice to either in under half-a-day each. We recommend that you avoid the crowds and take home memories your friends and family may have missed! Here's what we suggest you see:
St. Bartholomew the Great - Little Britain at West Smithfield, EC1 Phone: 020-7606-5171 Barbican or Farringdon Tube
The oldest surviving parish church in London (and the most complete example of Norman architecture), this church was built in 1123 by Henry I's court jester, Rahere . . . who, to this day, occasionally stops by for a ghostly visit! London's only medieval baptismal font, Rahere's elaborately-painted effigy, a lovely 16th-century oriel window and handsome Tudor memorials are just a few of the attractions of this incredibly evocative building.
This is one of our favorite places in London, serene and spiritual. If something about the church strikes you as familiar, think "Hollywood". . . both Shakespeare in Love and Four Weddings and A Funeral had scenes filmed inside St Bart's.
The Temple Church - King's Bench Walk at Inner Temple Lane, EC4 Phone: 020-7797-8250 Temple or Faringdon Tube
Whether your passion is medieval history or simply ancient architecture, this is one of London's most rewarding stops. Built in 1170-1185, this rare round church was inspired by Jerusalem's Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Of primary importance are the effigies of nine fully armored crusading knights, dating from the 12th through the 14th centuries. Look for William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, a towering figure of the early Middle Ages. Marshall was knight in service to Henry II, served as Marshal of England under King John and as Regent during the minority of Henry III. We warn you, though: this church, while well worth the visit, has highly irregular open hours. Please be sure to call ahead to avoid disappointment.
Shakespeare's Southwark - SE1, London Bridge Tube
If the weather is cooperating, take the Underground to this too-often-overlooked south London neighborhood. Wind your way west-bound on foot along Tooley Street and the River Thames, following directional signs to at least three of the vicinity's stellar attractions: Southwark Cathedral, Winchester Palace, and the recreated Globe Theatre. The cathedral ranks at the top of our favorite spiritual retreats - truly beautiful and very, very old. Winchester Palace was the London seat of the bishops of Winchester for over 500 years; although a ruin, its sense of grandeur can still be appreciated. There are two ways to enjoy Shakespeare's Globe Theatre - by joining the exceptionally well-done guided tour or by catching an open-air performance in a setting that does a fine job of replicating an Elizabethan theater experience. Phone 020-7902-1500 for details.
Two to three days? The creme de la creme . . .
The Tower of London - EC3 Phone: 020-7709-0765 Tower Hill Tube
What can we say? The Tower is in a class by itself. Allow at least four hours to enjoy the Tower fully - we've been known to spend six hours here and leave grudgingly! To get the most out of your visit, read the history first (it's in our book, natch). You won't regret it. Tales of elaborate ceremonies, bold escapes and tragic deaths pepper the dramatic history of the Tower. A little advance preparation will help the people and events spring to life as you wander around the ancient grounds and buildings.
Westminster Abbey - Broad Sanctuary, SW1 Phone: 020-7222-5152 Westminster Tube
So many dead kings (and queens!), so little time! Go to pay homage to the various Edwards, Henries, Marys and, of course, Elizabeth I. While standing in front of the high altar, reflect upon the fact that every monarch since William the Conqueror has been crowned on this spot. Again, allow at least four hours so you can include St Margaret's Church, (built alongside the Abbey so that the "common folk" would not disturb the monks at prayer) and the Jewel Tower, one of the very few surviving remnants of the medieval Westminster Palace.
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The Museum of London - 150 London Wall Phone: 020-7600-3699 Barbican, St Paul's or Moorgate Tube
The ultra-modern building straddles the site of the old Roman fort, with wonderful exhibits linked, by and large, to London, per se. We even enjoyed the displays that weren't from our era, and the bookstore is one of our favorites.
Ready for some exercise?
Walk the London Wall. It will get your legs moving, your blood pumping, and your mind stretching. You can begin at the Tower of London and walk counter clock-wise or follow a clockwise pattern from the Museum of London. There are 21 sections of the wall to be "discovered" - finding them all is the challenge. A true historical treasure hunt.
It's raining, it's pouring . . .
It's London, ignore it! (Although this isn't necessarily the time to catch an open-air performance at the Globe.)
Five or more days? London is yours!
You can easily cover all of the medieval and Tudor sites in London over the course of five days, depending on how much time you want to devote to the more complex attractions. Of course, we have advice on how to structure your time.
First, a word about London's ancient churches. We feature over a dozen of them in our book. Do not (we repeat: DO NOT!) try to visit all of the medieval churches in the City of London in one fell swoop. Our advice is based on experience. We did see them all in one day, and found ourselves suffering from Crypt-o-mania well before the day was out. All of the churches are well worth seeing - over a period of days. The same advice goes for the many London museums . . . even if you focus on displays from the Middle and Tudor ages, there's simply too much to take in during a concentrated tour. Our rule of thumb: ancient sites for half a day, museums for the other half.
We also strongly encourage you to see the medieval Guildhall, but this may take some advance planning, for the building closes frequently for private functions. Phone 020-7606-3030 early in the week to confirm the open hours.
We hope our tips help you discover a side of London you've never seen before, and that you find it as fascinating, entertaining and engaging as we do. Now, enjoy your time in London (we are soooo jealous)!
When we finished our first book, The Amateur Historian’s Guide to Medieval and Tudor London, it was with a tinge of sadness. We were reluctant to “leave” London behind, and so it was with some trepidation that we set forth to begin the research for the second book in our series, Medieval and Tudor England: Day Trips South of London.
We quickly found ourselves intrigued by the wealth of medieval and Tudor castles, abbeys, guildhalls and manor homes to be found very close to our favorite city. Our challenge was to share those discoveries with you in a manner that was entertaining, accessible and useful. We settled on “day trips”, grouping attractions that would make for easy, enjoyable and compelling one-day excursions. Using London as your base, you can depart the capital city in the morning and return in time for a night at the theater or a leisurely in-town dinner. Works for us! Travel time to most sites is under two hours and many (though by no means all) of the attractions can be reached by train.
Suppose you’re not quite ready for total immersion in the ancient history of southeast England, amateur or otherwise. Maybe you only have a day or two to spare, or perhaps you’d rather just sample some of the delights outside of London before committing to the full menu. Or, maybe you’d rather just cut to the chase and have us prioritize your travels for you. Glad to oblige! The following is our very subjective list of not-to-be-missed sites in southeast England…with some extra-added help in planning “theme” trips for all you specialists. When you’ve seen ‘em all, we’d love to know your top picks!
~When time is of the essence...
See Eltham Palace. It’s less than a half hour from London, the history is fascinating and the interior design is unlike any “medieval” site you’ve ever toured. (We’ll let you in on a little secret: our hearts may belong to the Middle Ages, but our tastes are firmly rooted in 1930s Hollywood!)
~Best close-in day trip…
This is a toss-up between Faversham and Rochester. For some, a trip isn’t worth its salt if there’s not a castle or a cathedral involved. Rochester has both, and a very nice side trip to the charming village of Cobham as well. However, for our money, Faversham has the slight edge. No castle, no cathedral, but an incredibly well-preserved medieval town, with houses, churches, inns and a guildhall that date from the Middle Ages.
~Want to go farther a-fied?
It has to be Dover. Although almost too far to qualify as a day trip (two hours, each way), Dover is easily accessible by direct train, bus and motorcoach. The castle is one of the very best we’ve ever visited, with compelling history and engaging displays. If you have the time, you must visit!
~Sleeping away from London, forsooth!
We suggest you set your sights on Rye. Rye is a convenient stopover between day trips to Maidstone or Sevenoaks and Dover. There are a whole host of ancient inns and eateries in a wide range of prices, and the medieval sites in Rye can be enjoyed in a few very easy hours.
~Totally Tudor…
See Sevenoaks. The entire day trip is devoted almost exclusively to Tudor manor homes, including Anne Boleyn’s childhood home, Hever. There are so many sites, you’d be hard-pressed to see them in a day.
~Castle crazed…
The Arundel day trip is all about castles – although you’ll need to spend the night at Amberley Castle in order to see it firsthand. If you do choose to spend the night and want to stick with the castle theme, combine this trip with a visit to Lewes.
~Best cathedral…
We’re taking a big risk here, but we both agree (and therefore, cannot be wrong!): Chichester Cathedral edges out most others we’ve visited, with fewer tourists and a very evocative sense of the spiritual. Of course, you can’t beat the history of Canterbury Cathedral, and the town of Canterbury offers more than enough to keep you busy for the day. Your choice; we’ve given your our opinion!
~Shopping spree!
All right, all right, we admit it. Sometimes we’ve had enough history and need some attitude adjustment to set us back on track. We it’s too early for happy hour, shopping does the trick, and we have found the best shopping (outside of London) in the town of Guildford. By the way, the historic sites here are top-notch, too.
Well, there you have it – our cook’s tour of southeast England. All that reminiscing makes us itch to pack our bags and jump the puddle one more time – which is just what we’re going to do. This May, we’re off to research the third book in the Amateur Historian’s series, which will focus on Windsor, Oxford, Stratford-upon-Avon and the wealth of ancient sites in the English midlands. We can’t wait to share what we find there with you!
Happy Travels!