The
Amateur HistoriansGlorious
Gloriana Getaway
-- a tribute to Good Queen Bess
By Sarah Valente Kettler & Carole Trimble
This year marks the 400th anniversary of the death of Queen Elizabeth I, one of Englands greatest monarchs and surely one of historys most fascinating characters. What better excuse for a trip to England that combines some of our favorite sites in and around London in a pilgrimage that pays homage to the life of Good Queen Bess.
We started our quest by paying tribute to Gloriana herself at Westminster Abbey. More disciplined travelers might prefer to save the best for last, enjoying mounting anticipation as they journey toward that one Ashow-stopping@ attraction. Were immediate-gratification travelers, so a visit to her tomb was naturally the first stop on our Eliza-Tour.
Since the death of Edward the Confessor in 1065, Westminster Abbey has served as Englands primary royal mausoleum. As you wend your way toward Elizabeths tomb, its hard not to be distracted by her numerous predecessors and their kin B a host of Henrys, Richards and Edwards vie for your attention. True Tudor fanatics, however, will be undeterred in their pursuit of the abbeys Chapel of Henry VII. Named for Elizabeths grandfather, the chapel is chockablock with the tombs of Tudor luminaries (and a few who proved to be less-than-luminary), including Henry himself and his wife, Elizabeth of York.
The lavishly decorated chapel is splashed throughout with trappings designed to underscore the legitimacy of the Tudor claim to the Crown. Royal badges, the intertwined white and red roses uniting the houses of York and Lancaster, the lions of England, Welsh dragons and other regal and ancestral symbols are everywhere. Superlative fan vaulting, carved pendants and the statues of 95 saints add their own splendor to the dιcor.
Of course, the piece de resistance is the tomb of Good Queen Bess, with its striking alabaster effigy of Elizabeth I. Those who closely follow the ins-and-outs of Tudor familial affections will find it ironic B if not downright scandalous B that Elizabeth shares her tomb with her sister, ABloody Mary@ Tudor. Never close in life, the sisters have been forced to bond for all eternity, thanks to their cousin James I. Heir to Elizabeths throne, James built his predecessors tomb atop Mary Tudors and inscribed their common sarcophagus with the inscription, APartners both in throne and grave, here rest we two sisters, Elizabeth and Mary, in the hope of one resurrection.@ Nice sentiment, but somehow we doubt it.
Before you let the crowds press you beyond the chapel, take note of another of Elizabeths ironic roommates, yet another Mary. Beneath a truly magnificent tomb lies Mary, Queen of Scots, the Catholic cousin and constant rival of Elizabeth I. Ever fearful that Mary would foment a rebellion that would cost Elizabeth her throne, the English queen kept the deposed Scottish queen under house arrest for 19 years before ultimately ordering her execution. Elizabeths role in the assassination of a fellow anointed monarch haunted her to her death. Thanks, again, to the odd funereal arrangements of James I, the haunting may well continue in perpetuity!
As moving as we find visits to Elizabeths tomb, our very favorite London sight is the Tower of London (not surprising for people as passionate about medieval and Tudor history as we are). Luckily, there are strong enough links B however unfortunate B between Elizabeth and this royal fortress that we could include the Tower on our pilgrimage.
Princess Elizabeth was merely two years old when her mother, Anne Boleyn, was sentenced to death by Henry VIIIs henchmen on trumped-up charges of adultery. The execution took place inside the Tower confines; such private executions were a dubious perk awarded only to people of the highest political standing. Queen Annes grave can be visited in the Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, but only if you hook-up with one of the Towers official Beefeater-led tours.
Her mothers tragic demise (and the later execution of her adulterous stepmother, Catherine Howard) would have been reason enough for Elizabeth to despise the Tower. Her own traumatic experience cemented her hatred. In 1554, Queen Mary Tudor, convinced that her sister was plotting to usurp the Crown, had Elizabeth imprisoned in the Tower. Although there was no formal charge of treason B in fact there were no official charges at all B Elizabeth spent two months confined in the Bell Tower.
We have been known to spend the better part of the day at the Tower, only to be dragged away whining for more. However, in the interest of staying focused on all things AElizabeth@, a quick-tour will now suffice. For an authentic experience, approach the Tower by boat, entering through the Traitors Gate, as the terrified 21-year-old princess did.
From here, walk into the Inner Ward of the castle complex and visit Bell Tower, one of the oldest structures that make up the Tower of London. Construction of this tower began in the reign of Richard the Lionheart and was completed during King Johns.
Looking up at Bell Tower, you also will see the section of the inner wall known as Queen Elizabeths Walk. This is where Elizabeth (then a princess, not a queen) took her daily exercise, all the while hoping to catch a glimpse of her childhood friend and fellow prisoner (and rumored sweetheart) Robert Dudley. Robert and his brother Guildford were being held in Beauchamp Tower for their familys role in foisting Lady Jane Grey, the ANine Days Queen@, on the throne of Mary Tudor.
Next on the London leg of our Elizabeth Treasure Hunt is the only statue of her carved during her lifetime. As important as Elizabeth was to London B and vice versa B there are surprisingly few likenesses of the Virgin Queen to be found in the capital city. It took considerable enterprise and determination on our part to find the only contemporary stone likeness of our heroine, tucked away in an exterior niche at the church of St. Dunstan-in-the-West on Fleet Street.
The National Portrait Gallery yields more bountiful choices. Here youll find numerous images of Glorianna, her courtiers and kin; you can easily while away several hours admiring just the Tudor portraits. If youre like us, inveterate collectors of Elizarcana, the gallerys store has a wealth of books, postcards and queenly souvenirs.
Much as we love London, three of our favorite AElizabeth@ sites lie outside the city center. All are close enough to visit while using London as your home base (always a priority for us!) and each is staging special 400th Anniversary events in her honor.
The first is Hampton Court Palace. Elizabeth harbored no great affection for her fathers favorite palace; in her mind it was closely linked to the deaths of two of her stepmothers. . . and it was malodorous to boot! Despite her disdain, Elizabeth B ever the savvy businesswoman B recognized the palaces value as a showpiece. She made a point of maintaining the palace to its maximum glory and charged the Awell- dressed public@ for the privilege of gawking at the trappings of royalty. Indeed, Hampton Court may well have been Englands first admission-charged tourist attraction.
Hampton Court still does an outstanding job of Awowing@ visitors. Elizabeth-related highlights include the remarkable Tudor kitchens, Henry VIIIs State Apartments (with a fine portrait of the late Tudor dynasty, including Elizabeth) and the queens world-renowned gardens.
Hatfield House is a must-stop on any Eliza-Tour. Elizabeth spent the last two years of her sisters reign in quiet retirement at Hatfield -- those months in the Tower had convinced her to lie low. But what puts the castle at the top of the hit-parade of Gloriana-associated sites is that this is where the princess received the news of her ascension to Englands throne.
On November 17, 1558, Elizabeth sat studying beneath a massive oak tree. Suddenly, royal messengers from London arrived with news of Marys death and Elizabeths inheritance of the Crown. Overcome with emotion, Elizabeth dropped to her knees, quoting Psalm 118, AThis is the Lords doing and it is marvelous in our eyes.@ True to character, the new monarch quickly regained her composure, sashayed into the great hall and convened her first official Council of State.
No one knows for sure which of Hatfields oaks, if any, is the fabled AAscension Tree@, but youll find an intricately rendered frieze on the wall of the Old Palace that depicts the first Council assembly B a handful of other swells are thrown in for good measure. The Old Palace is the only portion of Hatfield House that dates from Elizabeths reign. Alas, the only way to see the inside of this beautiful building is to sign up for the Elizabethan Banquet staged on the grounds twice weekly. Then again, what better immersion experience could there be than goblets of mead, joints of meat, the strains of lute and fiddles and, of course, buxom serving wenches!
A starkly opposite experience awaits you at Kenilworth Castle in Warwickshire B there are no costumes, no lavish trappings, no piped-in Renaissance refrains. Kenilworth is an unadorned ruin B but oh what a splendid ruin it is! The history is so compelling, the stones themselves so evocative, it barely matters that Kenilworth is basically a shell -- its one of our very favorite ancient attractions.
Historians B amateur or otherwise B will find the roster of Kenilworths occupants (King John, Simon de Montfort, Edward I, John of Gaunt, to name a few) jaw-dropping. Even die-hard Elizabeth enthusiasts will find it hard to leave this castle without an increased appreciation B dare we say Aawe?@ B of the medieval era. Still, Kenilworths ties to Elizabeth are significant in their own right.
In an undeniable gesture of affection, Elizabeth granted the royal castle to her favorite courtier and friend, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, in 1563. Ever the hopeful suitor, Dudley immediately embarked upon an expansion of Kenilworth aimed to impress the queen. No fool when it came to knowing which side of his toast was buttered, Dudleys masterpiece was the spectacular guest quarters, designed to welcome Glorianna in the style to which shed become accustomed.
Known today as Leicesters Buildings, the complex once accommodated the queen and her entourage of more than 200 courtiers and servants. As you wander through this crumbled enclave, it is easy to envision the spectacle Dudley prepared to delight his beloved Elizabeth. During her 19-day visit in July 1575, the queen was regaled with pageants, banquets, parades, performances, jousts, concerts, hunts and fireworks, each more lavish than the last. In fact, Dudley spent as much on that summers merriment (,1,000 per day) as some lords spent on the entire construction of their manors! These royal frolics served as inspiration for Sir Walter Scotts novel, Kenilworth.
Celebrations and pageants recreating the life and times of Elizabeth I will continue throughout England until the end of September. Our London-based pilgrimage provided a long-weekends worth of appetite-whetting insights. With airfares so low, and our fourth book underway, were pondering the possibility of another glorious Glorianna getaway. Just one more excuse to cheer, ALong live our queen!@
London is served by two international airports, Heathrow and Gatwick. There are daily connecting flights from LAX on Aer Lingus, British Airways, American, Delta and Continental. Restricted round-trip air fares begin at $508.
The quickest and least expensive way to travel to London from Heathrow is via Heathrow Express train (www.heathrowexpress.co.uk). Trains depart the airport for Paddington Station every 15 minutes; travel time is about 20 minutes. Taxis are reasonably easy to come by at Heathrow. The fare to London is at least ,45 and travel ranges from 45 minutes to an hour or more, depending on rush hour.
From Gatwick, the most convenient option by far is the Gatwick Express train (www.gatwickexpress.co.uk). Trains depart the airport for Victoria Station every 15 minutes; travel time is about half an hour. Taxi service from Gatwick can be prohibitive B around ,90 B and travel time can be an hour or more.
To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 44 (country code for England), 20 (the London area code) and the local number. The exceptions are Hatfield (area code 17) and Kenilworth (area code 19).
The Elizabeth Hotel, 37 Eccleston Square, Westminster, SW1; 7828-6812, fax 7828-6814, www.elizabethhotel.co.uk. This small, comfortable hotel is in walking distance of Westminster Abbey and Buckingham Palace. Rooms start at ,65 per night and include a full English breakfast.
The Abbey Court Hotel, 20 Pembridge Gardens, Kensington, W2; 7221-7518, fax 7792-0858, www.abbeycourthotel.co.uk. This fully-renovated hotel is located in the fashionable Notting Hill neighborhood. Rooms start at ,75.00.
Henry VIII Hotel, 19 Leinster Garden, Bayswater, WC2; 7262-0117, fax 7706-0472. A modern, mid-sized hotel, the Henry VIII features small but comfortable rooms. Rates begin at ,105.
The Franklin Hotel, 28 Egerton Gardens, Knightsbridge, SW3; 7584-5533, fax 7584-5449, www.franklinhotel.co.uk. Quietly sophisticated, the Franklin offers 44 antique-furnished rooms in a cluster of town homes, a block away from the Victoria and Albert Museum. Rates begin at ,165.
Hampton Court Palace; Fancy yourself suited for the royal life? The Landmark Trust offers you the chance to find out. Contact the trust about overnight accommodations in the palaces ancient Fish Court or the Anewer@ Georgian House. In the USA call 1-802-254-6868 or go to www.landmarktrust.co.uk.
The Savoy Hotel, the Strand, WC2 ; 7836-4343, www.savoy-group.co.uk With room rates starting at ,265 and climbing into the stratosphere, an overnight stay at the Savoy is out of most peoples league. Afternoon tea or a pre-theatre martini might be a more reasonable solution. Be sure to check out the outdoor plaques that detail the sites ancient history. Beyond the hotel on Savoy Hill is the tiny Queens Chapel, built in 1516.
Cafι Spice Namaste, 16 Prescott Street, London, E1
A 5-minute walk from the Tower of London, youll be treated to dazzling dιcor and some of Londons finest Indian fare. Prices range from ,10-,16.00. Reservations recommended.
Al Duca, 4-5 Duke of York Street, Green Park, SW1; 7839-3090
An intimate atmosphere and exquisitely prepared Italian cuisine, with prices well below some of the Abig name@ restaurants. Prices range from ,10-,18.00. Reservations are essential.
Cafι in the Crypt, St. Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, WC2; 7839-4342
Just across from the National Portrait Gallery, this cafι offers appealing homemade soups, casseroles and sandwiches in an evocative church crypt. Prices range from ,2-,8.00. No reservations.
J. Sheeky, 28-32 St. Martins Lane, Leicester Square, WC2; 7240-2565
The sister restaurant of the wildly popular Ivy, J. Sheeky is every bit as wonderful, and much easier to reserve. The specialty is seafood. Prices range from ,10-,25. Reservations recommended.
Jenny Los Tea House, 14 Eccleston Street, Victoria, SW1; 7823-0399
Its cash-only at this cozy, neighborhood Chinese restaurant. Noodle dishes are the star attraction. Prices range from ,5-,8.00. No reservations.
Westminster Abbey, Broad Sanctuary, London, SW 1; 7222-5152
Basic admission is
,6.00
adults,
,4.00
children, with discounts for students, seniors and families.
The Tower of London, Tower Hill, London, EC1; 7709-0765
Admission is
,11.00
adults,
,7.50
children, with discounts for students, seniors and families.
The National Portrait Gallery, St. Martins Place, WC2; 7306-0055
Admission is free of charge.
Hampton Court Palace, Surrey; 8781-9500
Admission is
,11.30
adults,
,7.40
children, with discounts for seniors and families.
Hatfield House, Hertfordshire; 0728-7010
Admission is
,6.20
adults,
,3.10
children
Kenilworth Castle, Warwickshire; 2685-2078
Admission is
,4.50
adults,
,2.30
children, with discounts for students, seniors and families.